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Varanger — To the Far North

From Finnish Lapland to the shores of the Barents Sea

The journey to Varanger begins as soon as we arrive in Finland. From Ivalo, the road winds its way between lakes and forests, through Nordic landscapes where the first encounters are never far away…

Photo of a Finland lake in the mist
Photo of a lake in Finland
Photo of a lake in Finland
Photo of the Ivalo river at Ivalo

In Ivalo, we already discover those magical northern lights… with a warmth unlike any other!

Photo of a Female Red-breasted Merganser
Photo a Male Red-breasted Merganser
Photo of a Black-throated Loon
Photo of a European Otter
Photo of a Brambling
Photo dof a Pine Grosbeak

Kaamanen area

Photo of the Lake at Kaamanen
Photo dof a Pine Grosbeak
Photo of a Syberian jay

The Western Capercaillie, an unexpected encounter

Photo of a Western Capercaillie in the woodland
Photo of a Western Capercaillie in the woodland
Photo of a Western Capercaillie displaying in the woodland
Close-up photo of a Western Capercaillie displaying in the woodland

Kongsfjord, our basecamp...

Photo of a beach at Kongsfjord
Photo of Kongsford Giestehus
Photo of a beach at Kongsfjord
Photo of a beach at Kongsfjord

In early June, at this latitude, the sun never sets… creating the fantastic light I love so much! The nights are short!

The Ruffs

Photo of Ruffs fighting
Photo of Ruffs fighting
Photo of a Lek in the Kongsfjord area
Photo of Ruffs fighting
Photo of Ruffs fighting

In early June, the Varanger Peninsula is only just beginning to awaken... Snow still lingers in places... Yet nature is already stirring, welcoming the Ruff back to their traditional leks for their annual gathering. The males engage in spectacular displays and mock battles, competing for the females and the chance to reproduce!

Photo in Kongsfjord area
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of a Ruff
Photo of Ruffs

Around the leks...

While the Ruffs are busy displaying and competing, other species make an appearance around us.

Photo of a Red necked Phalarope
Photo of an Arctic Fox
Photo of a Tufted Duck
Photo of a Mountain Hare
Photo dof a Long-tailed Duck
Photo of a Golden plover
Photo dof a Rock Ptarmigan
Photo of a reindeer
Photo of a Long-tailed Jaeger
Photo of a Bluethroat
Photo of a Lapland Longspur

Further to the north-west...

Photo of a Landscape near Berlevåg
Photo of a House at Båtsfjord
Photo of the Kjølnes Lighthouse
Photo of a White-tailed Eagle
Photo of a White-tailed eagle flying

Elsewhere in Varanger — around Båtsfjord

The peninsula still has many more encounters in store. Along the way, Northern Gannets, Yellow-billed Loons and Razorbills add to the remarkable diversity of birdlife in the Far North.

Photo of a Yellow-billed Loon

Photo de Plongeon à bec blanc

Photo of a Razorbill
Photo of a Northern Gannet colony
Photo of a Northern gannet taking off
Photo of Razorbill flying
Photo of a Northern gannet flying

Varanger Peninsula south coast - Vadsø

Photo of Fish-drying racks near Vadsø
Photo of the haven in Vadsø
Photo of buildings near Vadsø
Photo of a Dunlin
Photo of a Common Ringed Plover
Photo of a Common Eider
Photo of a Eurasian Wigeon
Photo of a Common Redshank
Photo of a Terek Sandpiper
Photo of a Ruddy Turnstone
Photo of a Bar-tailed Godwi

Varanger Peninsula East Coast - Vardø

Photo of the Statue of Fridtjof Nansen in Vardø

Since childhood, I have been fascinated by the Nordic countries, the conquest of the poles and all the adventures that led explorers there... Paul-Émile Victor fired my imagination with his Arctic and Antarctic expeditions... Amundsen, Nansen, Heyerdahl — names that echo through my childhood memories, each telling a different story, each an extraordinary adventure!

And then, there I was, in the far reaches of Norway, in Vardø, suddenly coming face to face with a statue of Fridtjof Nansen! What an extraordinary life this man led! To get an idea of just how remarkable it was, read his biography — and look up the “Nansen passport” as well…

In Vardø, at the far eastern end of the peninsula, new species await us, particularly on the island of Hornøya, inhabited only by birds: European Shags, Razorbills, Atlantic Puffins, Brünnich’s Guillemots… and a lighthouse! Shrouded in the mist that stayed with us all day, the sense of closeness to the birds is even stronger. We can approach them without disturbing them. This is their home; we are merely their guests for the day!

Photo a European Shag
Photo of a Atlantic Puffin
Photo Hornøya Lighthouse in the mist
Photo of a Razorbill and a European Shag
Photo of a Razorbill
Photo of a Common Guillemot
Photo of Common Guillemots
Panoramic photo of Common Guillemots and Razorbills

On the way back, one last encounter awaits us... Common Cranes are familiar to us during their migrations, when they pass through our regions or stop over at Lac du Der. I knew they spent the summer in Sweden, but I had no idea they travelled this far north.

Finding them here, in the far reaches of Finland and Norway, was a wonderful surprise... and a lovely way to bring this journey to a close.

Photo of Common Cranes
© 2026 Jean-Marc Buchet, Tous droits réservés.
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